EYE ON ETHICS

Ms. De Jesus is the executive director of the Center for Media Freedom and Responsibility.
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A court battle over a restaurant review shows nothing if not the coming of age of the relative latecomer in the growing pages of lifestyle: the food writer or restaurant critic.

Lawyers and journalists in the UK and the US followed the case which began when a restaurant owner lodged a libel complaint in Northern Ireland against negative review of Goodfellas pizza restaurant in West Belfast. Written by restaurant critic, Caroline Workman, it was published in the Irish News in August 2000. According to a report on the case, Workman “had been unimpressed by pretty much everything she encountered. She deemed a chicken dish ‘inedible’ and a glass of Coca Cola she found to be flat, warm and watery.” She gave the restaurant one star out of five.

The jury decided in favor of CiarnanConvery, the owner of Goodfellas, awarding him 25,000 pounds ($50,000) in libel damages. The unprecedented decision rocked press rooms on both sides of the Atlantic, as everyone in the business of reviewing sensed the chilling effect the ruling would have beyond the circle of food critics. The Irish News challenged the decision, with legal luminaries on the offensive. In March this year, the appeals court reversed the decision, asserting reviews to be legitimate expression of fair comment and opinion.

Indeed, how else could these critical judgments be appreciated, except as the view or opinion of the people writing them. To submit these to the evaluation of the court would be sheer absurdity, as these are not involved with the evaluation of facts. But this space is not about law. And the decision sparks thoughts about the obligations of the critics to their readers.

Their opinions and views play ,quite an important role in the public forum, as critics become effective arbiters of taste, setting standards for a range of services, products and performances, which fill up a significant part of social and community life, fashion and style, music recordings, theater, books, and yes, food. Indeed, those being reviewed await the glowing notice from this media circle as sure sign of success.

Food writers are probably later comers to the game, but with the growing trend of eating out, they have probably gained a larger following than their other counterparts, as the ordinary person can be presumed to be interested in food, whether or not one actually goes to eat out. And those who eat out appreciate the expert and knowing tip about the better places in which to spend their money.

So, while the landmark decision in North Ireland asserted strong protection of the food writer’s opinion, it would be well for restaurant writers of the world to recall certain do’s and don’ts for the job.

Nora Ephron notes how the classic tradition for the restaurant critic required a level of anonymity. He or she is thus “rarely photographed, makes reservations under a pseudonym, cannot accept free meals, and never reveals his identity to a proprietor.” Food writers share tips to avoid being “outed,” even celebrity status is often a sign of success.

It makes sense to work for anonymity, as a restaurant should not be judged on service given to a preferred client or customer, which the known restaurant critic will surely receive. Unlike books, concerts and theater performances, the service of the restaurant can be adjusted to excellence as appropriate to the preferred customer or client.The review however is made on the presumption that any customer will receive the same service and will eat the same quality of food.

Fairness also demands that the critic visit the restaurant several times before writing the review. And judgment can be made only after he or she has tried as many of the dishes offered by the establishment. A review on a one-time visit or one-dish would be considered unfair, as all practicing cooks/chefs know how delicately the factors in the kitchen can affect the cooking.

The great cities of Asia locate among the most vibrant restaurant scenes in the world. The restaurant critic provides a helpful guide to the myriad offerings from holes-in-the wall to elegant places for fine dining. Asian newspapers have spawned food writers of every kind, from those with formal training in culinary arts to those whose knowledge of and familiarity with food are simply home-grown in food-rich backgrounds. The best are those who offer anthropological research about food as an aspect of culture and who leave the restaurant writing to others.

One can see that restaurant reviews feature the writer’s face quite prominently and no one is expected to be shy about being known when one is dining out. The custom of the country also includes PR invitations for journalists who will then make sure that a favorable feature will make it to press.

In the Asian setting then, restaurant critics and food writers need to take care that the special treatment they are given does not get in the way of the application of honest and critical judgment.

With global travel and Internet, food writers provide the first reference for where to eat in a city. The food writer who wishes to serve as a guide for readers should make clear the basis for the pleasure in a restaurant and the signature dishes for which the restaurant is known. It also helps to note how much one should expect to spend and what cards the restaurant will take.

I want the critic to say why a dish has been found praiseworthy and to point out what was disappointing. To do this requires research about the food being offered, and informed knowledge about food preparation and cooking in general. I also think that they should indicate what judgments reflect matters of personal preference and taste. As to preferring risotto or paella more wet than dry.

Good restaurant critics, like ordinary journalists, should write for the general public, not cater to an inner circle of already knowing connoisseurs. They could provide guidance and information about dishes, noting innovations on a classic dish, thus enriching the readers’ own response to the dining experience.

Let’s face it. Many read restaurant reviews having no intention to travel to a city or go across town to eat. For them, it is all for one’s vicarious experience. So the writing style has a lot to do with reader loyalty.

A reminder then for that journalistic virtue of clarity. Critics will sometimes let flow words – “heavenly,”“memorable,”“mouthwatering” –that can’t really mean much when describing a sauce or a stew